Puppy Dog Breed Field Spaniel
Latest Field Spaniel Latest News
Latest Field Spaniel Frequently Asked Questions:
I am looking for another dog to show. I own one Weimaraner right now, and he is great. So in other words, i know they are crazy hyperr and all that. I have alot of experience with field spaniels also. I have a breeder for both. Based on LOOKS, what would you choose? (Im not basing my decision on looks, i have done endless research on both temperaments, possible health problems, ect, ect ) btw, i show dogs AKC. E.H. --- wernt my EXACT words that i have already done a ton of research on both breeds, including temperament and health, and many more...? hmm...
Answer:Why would you ask online STRANGERS... to pick a dog FOR YOU, based on LOOKS????????? That's NUTZ! You pick the dog based on its: personality, how well they fit YOUR lifestyle, the grooming, health issues, cost to own & feed, etc. You may also want to look at how easy (or hard) it will be to finish a rare breed, like the FS in your area (look at the AKC point schedule). It is a wonder you have a breeder available for both, but if you do, then I guess you can get either breed. Most people trying to get a rare breed, have to wait long periods of time, as a general rule. The Field Spaniel at Westminster, looked like a very good dog & I like they have a lot more leg under them, than the Sussex Spaniel. There is a big difference in the dominance to familiar people, kids & other dogs between the breeds (the Weim is more dominant & more territorial) higher in guard-dog ability - but both are good watch-dogs (alarm barkers). There's a lot more grooming with the FS. Some people really enjoy grooming - is that true in YOUR case? The FS is considerably smaller, would you like a smaller dog than your current Weim? The FS is a better obedience dog but both are smart problem-solvers & have high learning rates. Descriptions of the FS include"great endurance, moderate speed & agility" and "unusually docile" It has an "instinct" for problem-solving. Behavior problems may include excessive barking at noises, roaming & food stealing. It may also snore.
Today they turned 11 weeks old and 9 weeks is the bare minimum age a pup should be weaned from its mother. Anyways she's giving me a male puppy whom i plan to enroll in tracking classes because field spaniels are in the sporting group in the AKC. He's the only male puppy in the litter. So i guess my question is what are the absolute best puppy care tip websites and how old does he have to be before i can register him with the AKC or if his sire and dam are registered,which they are, does that automatically qualify him?Any help is greatly appreciated!Thank you!
Answer:You have to register him to get your AKC papers. Yes, both sire and dam must be registered for that to happen since that's the intention of papers through the AKC (to track bloodlines). If there's no breeder agreement/contract that dictates when this will occur or if it's a limited or full registration, then you can send your fee and registration in right away, otherwise, some breeders with limited registrations won't accommodate until after your puppy is fixed (usually around 6 months). Nothing is "automatic"...both you and breeder must submit paperwork for filing. (btw, you're confused over weaning...that means they're no longer nursing, which mom weans them weeks before 9. 8-9 weeks is the optimum age for most breeds to separate them from their litter mates and introduce them to their new human pack for developmental reasons -- some breeds require a bit more time because they are slower maturer's.) There are lots of good places to get solid information. Don't get ahead of yourself though, the first thing you want to concentrate on is housebreaking and bonding, setting yourself up as Alpha and being prepared for his attempt to move up in pack hierarchy every change that occurs in his new pack. Proper play (don't tug-of-war with puppies or other aggressive games, keep it simple and teaching) aids greatly in training, which I start as early as possible with my puppies and clients puppies after evaluating the individual pup to see when they're ready...don't wait until 6 months like many do...you'll only have 6 months of bad habits to break instead of starting off on the right foot. At this age they are sponges interested in learning and learn very quickly if handled properly (only positive reinforcement techniques are necessary) and if you make the training into a game, it's so easy it's almost a crime to charge for the services! So keep it light and fun, and limited to about 10 minutes at a time (a few times a day) and you'll be amazed at what a good dog he grows into. One big mistake many make is getting too hard of toys for the little ones to play with...remember, puppy teeth have no roots, we don't want to break them off. Feel your fattest finger, and keep the density of his toys to that. The harder stuff comes between 4-6 months when those puppy teeth are being forced out by the permanent teeth and could use both help in doing and limiting the pain with the pressure of chewing. Get a good vet IMMEDIATELY and have him checked. Start the inoculations and stay on schedule. Talk to him about heart-guard and start the monthly chewable as early as possible. And depending on your area, talk to him about flea/tick prevention as well and start a monthly routine as early as possible. You won't be able to enroll in a puppy-K class for a bit, which I suggest doing even if the pup is trained before, so you get the socialization with other puppies. Don't make the mistake of socializing unsafely...which is to say that until he's had at least his first 3 sets of shots, he shouldn't be in strange yards or meeting strange dogs...this keeps him from parvo and other viruses too easily picked up by walking in pooh. But then take him as many places as you can and expose him to as many different things as possible so that he's adjusted and secure and properly socialized. That's the best I can do for you for free at this time. If you don't have a lot of dog experience, you may want to get at least one session under your belt with a professional to understand basic knowledge and get off on the right foot...a good trainer won't take your dog for training but will train you how to properly handle your dog...after all, he has to live and listen to you, not the trainer. Good luck! Enjoy!
Okay, WHEN I get an English Springer Spaniel, I want to partner up with the dog in flushing. I would like to compete in field trials also.... But I love the Bench type English Springer, I've always wanted a dog with a docked tail (ones that breed specific are docked.) Because It's something new, and I've never even Known a dog with a docked tail, I've known a bulldog but that tail isn't necassarily the dock I like. My main question is;.. Can I use a Bench Show ESS in field trials and flushing versus a Field ESS? Or am I better off just getting a Field? I really want to do my research before deciding, and I know looks aren't everything, but I love the look of the Bench ESS. Thank you =) (in case u don't know, a bench has longer hair and docked tail, used commonly for a show dog, field is commonly used for flushing and has a long slightly feathered tail...) Thanks guys and... What would I have to do if I didn't shave down the Bench ESS? Would I just have to brush and pluck out the burs? thx bXrlucy: The Bench type ESS is like this...: http://www.dog-dna.com/breed/photos/English-Springer-Spaniel.jpg And the Field is this kind: http://www.justusdogs.com.au/upload/flex_img/31052008101724_01.jpg It's basically the fur type, longer for the Bench and Shorter for the Field. And the Tail on the Bench ESS is more commonly docked whereas the Field ESS has a longer, Feathered tail. What about ticks? Are they common in Utah? I dunno if you'll kno but if u do thx =) To "unstoppable always" I know they have a COAT, but sometimes people get confused. The coat is MADE of fur, more proof that you're an f*ing retard! PLEASE PLEASE stop answering my questions I'm not gonna stud, I'm getting a B*tch, I'm not going to shave a dog, that's wierd. I'm researching BTW! I'm not even getting a dog until I know I can handle one and can afford one. At least I'm not being stupid and asking for randoms to name my dog or TELL me what breed to get. I'm simply researching the DIFFERENT AND POSSIBLE flushing breeds! If you know ANYTHING about dogs, you'd ANSWER, not babble on about people Babbling so SHUT UP! To "there goes the fear" I would never shave a dog, don't worry. I know the meaningfulness of the coat and when I see people with a shaved dog I think "Yup, they're irresponsible and they think the dog's cool in this hot summer heat when the dog is really burning up." i often have to tell owners to not resume with shaving. I hate to see a dog shaved. I clip my current sheltie's feathering sometimes, but only around the areas where poo and pee get caught and under the paws where the "snowshoes" grow. The tail has been shaved but only because the people at petsmart were being dumb.
Answer:The picture of the dog you have linked as a Field-bred Springer is not a field-bred, it is a bench-bred Springer with an undocked tail. Notice the lower set pendulous ears, the compact square body, the extensive feathering on the chest and legs, the full and square muzzle. It all screams bench-bred. This is what a real field-bred English Springer Spaniel looks like: http://www.spokanehuntingspaniels.com/images/777px-field_bred_englsh_springer_spaniel.jpg Field-bred English Springer Spaniels ARE DOCKED, but not as short as show-line Springers. All Working Spaniels MUST be docked if you don't want a dog getting its tail broken and mangled when it squeezes through thick brush. Field-bred Spaniels are allowed a slightly longer tail as hunters use that slightly longer tail as a "flag" to monitor the movement of the dog when working through tall and heavy brush. There are many bench-bred Springers that have the drive and have earned titles in hunting tests and field trials. It's up to you to find a responsible breeder that breeds to standard not only in conformation, but in working drive. I will admit, however, that field-bred Springers do have an advantage in the field compared to bench-bred. Their long lean bodies make for a dog that can work tirelessly all day and at a faster pace than your typical bench-bred Springer. Many are slightly taller than standard, which gives them an advantage over tall grass. The shorter coat and higher set ears catch less debris. The tight eye rims prevent dirt and debris from irritating the dog's eyes. Field-bred dogs are strictly bred for their working ability, which makes for a dog that usually looks nothing like the set breed standard. Generally, field-bred Springers do not make good dogs for strictly pet homes. These dogs were bred to work and quickly become destructive if not allowed to do so. Bench-bred Springers from a good breeder should have the natural drive and ability to work, yet will be a calmer companion in the home. Unfortunately there are some lines out there that have neglected that all important trait. Get in touch with breeders and find out what exactly they aim for in their breeding. If you do end up with a bench-bred Springer, DO NOT shave the coat. The coat protects the dog from the elements. Insulating it from heat and cold and acting as a protective barrier against water and nasty plant material that could injure a dog. This is why Spaniels are bred to have such pretty feathering. It protects the dog. You may trim the feathering if you wish. Make sure to brush before and after going outside, thoroughly inspecting feathering and the feet.
Answer:Not necessarily, but it's a start. Is his aggresion towards other male dogs or people or ??? If it's a dominance thing then neutering him may help curb it a bit, but it isn't necessarily a cure-all. Regardless, neutering him would be better for his own health and the excess pet population, not to mention you wouldn't want to pass that agression on if he WERE to breed. :)
I was thinking of getting a field springer spaniel and not a bench springer spaniel because of the high energy, lighter bodies, and easy grooming. However, I have doubts on keeping one because of their drive to retrieve and flush game. Is it possible to train a springer not to retrieve or flush game?
Answer:
